Prince Albert Edward of Wales and His Wife Princess Alexandra Christina in Istanbul
Osman Öndeş
William Howard Russell, a writer for The Times, documented the 1869 journey of Prince Albert Edward (the future King Edward VII) and his fiancée, Princess Alexandra Christina, to Istanbul. This account, compiled from Russell’s travel notes, is enriched by the illustrations of the renowned marine painter Oswald Walters Brierly, who depicted scenes of life in Istanbul during the royal visit.
Oswald Walters Brierly’s painting depicting the Ariadne near Dolmabahçe.
The Royal Ambition for Egypt and Beyond
Driven by a boundless curiosity for the Egyptian Pyramids, Prince Albert Edward and Princess Alexandra organized a royal tour. In 1869, they completed their archaeological explorations in Egypt, which included visiting the nearly finished Suez Canal. The royal entourage included Sir Samuel Baker, naturalist Richard Owen, marine painter Oswald Walters Brierly, William Howard Russell, and the engineer Ferdinand de Lesseps.
While the couple had visited Assuan (the First Cataract) in 1865, their 1869 trip focused on the "Second Cataract" in Nubia (now Lake Nasser). The final portion of their journey, spent in Istanbul, provides a fascinating glimpse into the era.
Painter Oswald Walter Brierly (1817-1894). The work, composed of travel notes published by William Howard Russell—a meticulous researcher and writer—details this journey.
Prince Albert Edward of Wales and Princess Alexandra Christina first visited the region near Aswan, Egypt, known as the "First Cataract," in 1865. However, during their 1869 journey, their archaeological interests prevailed as they examined excavations in Nubia, known as the "Second Cataract" (today known as Lake Nasser). The final notes of this trip belong to the days they spent in Istanbul and are quite intriguing.
Monday, March 20 (1869), which coincided with the Easter holiday, was a beautiful, breezy day. The royal yacht Ariadne departed from Rhodes around 8:00 PM. Traveling at a speed of 10 knots and accompanied by her escort ship, she began to skip over steady waves. While they were initially pleased that the Ariadne caught a good wind, the wind soon intensified, and the sails began to beat against the masts. Although they reefed all the sails, the waves continued to strike the bow. Though the Princess did not feel ill, she retired to her cabin.
The Ariadne passed through the Dardanelles on March 31 and arrived in Istanbul on the morning of April 1.
Ariadne Approaching the Dardanelles
William Howard Russell describes the events as they approached the Dardanelles:
“March 30—We are sailing among the Aegean Islands. With the break of day, Patmos appeared as a dark speck surrounded by white foam on the blue sea. It was followed by Levitha. Since we did not want to enter the Dardanelles before sunrise, we reduced our speed. After settling in, the prince and the protocol were taken by the sultan's ceremonial carriages to the Dolmabahçe Palace, located further up the Bosphorus. At Dolmabahçe Palace, they were greeted by the guard regiment and the band. As soon as he got out of the carriage, the prince was welcomed by the sultan and taken into a very grand hall among the palace officials lined up on both sides of the entrance. The prince introduced Captain Campbell and Sir F. Blackwood, along with his entourage, to the sultan. [The ship] passed us, but we gradually caught up. In the evening, as the two ships sailed together in a hazy atmosphere that severely restricted visibility, the Plain of Troy was on our starboard side."
March 31 and the Dardanelles Strait!
At 10:00 AM, Kilitbahir was on our starboard bow, with the Çanakkale Fortress (Kale-i Sultaniye) on our right. As we dropped anchor, we were saluted from the ramparts of both fortresses.
After the Ariadne anchored, His Excellency the British Ambassador Hon. H. Elliot, Mr. Lionel Moore, Mr. Kennedy, and Vice-Consul Mr. Wrench came on board. Rauf Pasha also arrived on the Sultan's steam yacht to welcome the royal guests on behalf of the Sultan and offer his respects.
To the sound of cannon salutes from both the fortresses and the ships, the Prince and his entourage boarded the pinnace that would take them to Çanakkale. Here, the Prince was met by the Governor of Çanakkale, Eyüp Pasha. After exchanging greetings, the Prince entered the fortress. A giant cannon had been prepared for firing. The Prince and his entourage took their places on the walls to observe the blast.
Accompanied by the ships Caradoc and others, the Ariadne paused at Gallipoli in the late afternoon after leaving Çanakkale. As the Ariadne moved toward the old pier, the local public rushed to the shore. When the lifeboats were lowered to take the Prince and his entourage ashore, a large crowd was waiting at the pier. They were met by an officer sent by the Pasha and the British Vice-Consul. Together, they immediately passed through narrow streets to visit the graves of British soldiers, most of whom had perished during the Crimean War.
The Prince and Princess in Istanbul
On the morning of Thursday, April 1, the Ariadne was finally off the coast of Istanbul. The Prince, the Princess, and their guests began to watch the enchanted tableau of Istanbul’s soaring mosques and minarets. As they approached Sarayburnu, boats filled with British residents, decorated with flags, drew near, and cries of "God Save the Queen" rose to the heavens.
Upon seeing the Prince and Princess, the applause and cheers from the steamboats and rowboats intensified. On the deck, the Royal Marines, led by Captain Poere, stood ready as a fully equipped guard of honor.
William Howard Russell (1821–1907), the famous war correspondent and special press representative for Prince Albert Edward, describes the scene as follows:
“The lifeboats were lowered, and the Prince left the ship with his entourage in the magnificent imperial state barge assigned by the Sultan. As His Royal Highness boarded the vessel to the sound of whistles, a salute was fired from the Turkish ironclads adorned with banners in the Bosphorus and from Sarayburnu, amidst the cheers of the crowds on the piers. The dancing waves were crowded with rowboats and steamboats.”
Accompanied by the Ariadne and other vessels, the boat carrying the royal standard reached the Tophane piers. The Sultan's state barge—the most magnificent of all floating vessels—was equipped with fourteen pairs of oars and rowers dressed in silk shirts. They were followed by three other state barges, accompanied by the Master of Ceremonies, Grand Vizier Ali Pasha, and Kâmil Bey.
Royal Reception and the Dolmabahçe Palace
After settling in, the Prince and the protocol were taken by the Sultan's ceremonial carriages to Dolmabahçe Palace, further up the Bosphorus. At the palace, they were greeted by the guard regiment and the band. Upon alighting from the carriage, the Prince was welcomed by the Sultan and led into a grand hall, passing between palace officials lined up on both sides of the entrance. The Prince introduced Captain Campbell, Sir F. Blackwood, and his entourage to the Sultan.
After a brief speech, the Prince was escorted to the threshold by the Sultan and returned to Salıpazarı. After lunch, Their Majesties, the Princess, and Mrs. Grey went to the British Embassy, where they were welcomed by Ambassador Elliot, his wife, and the embassy staff. Their visit lasted until six o'clock. On their return in the ceremonial carriages assigned by the Sultan, they were respectfully greeted by a large crowd along the roadside.
Observations of Istanbul and Imperial Luxury
William Howard Russell describes the changes in the city:
“A noticeable change was sensed in the people and structure of Istanbul. Since no wooden structures were permitted after the Great Fire of 1864, there was a significant amount of vacant space among the buildings. Gas lamps were present on the main roads on both sides of the Golden Horn, and many fountains could be seen. However, the changes in the people were not particularly pleasing to the eye. The elegant traditional garments of men were rarely seen. Women had also abandoned yellow slippers or sandals in favor of the latest European-style patent leather boots.”
The dinner served at Salıpazarı on gold and silver plates was admirable. In the room adjacent to the dining hall, the Sultan’s band, conducted by Guatelli Pasha, surprised everyone by playing opera music perfectly. When the orchestra stood to play "God Save the Queen" upon departure, everyone felt a universal desire to follow them despite their exhaustion.
Daily Life at the Pavilion
On Friday, April 2, breakfast at Salıpazarı was beautifully presented. The servants were fluent in French or Italian. The dinner given by the Sultan in honor of the Prince and Princess was incomparable in its thoughtfulness, taste, and opulence.
Service: Guards of honor, horse-drawn carriages, and a large group of servants were constantly on duty.
Music: Every night, an 84-piece orchestra trained by Italian instructors enchanted the guests. The conductor was Senior Guatelli Pasha, and the orchestra included at least twenty musician officers ranging in rank from colonel to lieutenant.
Atmosphere: Each morning, the Sultan sent trays filled with the rarest flowers and fruits. Valets in green and gold uniforms with white collars stood in the corridors. Çubukçus (pipe-bearers) in black uniforms were ready to bring hookahs with amber mouthpieces and tiny, jewel-encrusted coffee cups.
Accommodations: The cuisine was peerless, and the wines were excellent. Everyone associated with the palace spoke English or French. Turkish baths were available and prepared instantly upon request.
It was evident that the Sultan remembered how he had been received during his visit to London and wished to reciprocate. All imperial officials made the Prince’s entourage feel that they had not forgotten England's friendship during difficult times.
Turkish Women
Russell describes the Turkish women he encountered:
“Sherbet, orange juice, and violet-scented sweets were offered to Her Majesty and Mrs. Grey. On the lawn across the road, separated by low walls, the Turkish women in their riotously colored clothes—a feat only Eastern women can achieve—resembled a moving field of flowers.”
Since the arrival of allied forces in the capital, visible innovations had emerged. The veils (yashmak) worn by women were now made of the finest muslin, often making them more attractive rather than concealing them. From behind these snow-white faces, black bead-like eyes under straight eyebrows looked at you with a bright, unhesitating expression. Russell wondered if European couturiers would ever bring this "refined charm" to the West.
Cultural Outings and State Ball
During their stay, the Sultan invited the royal couple to the Naum Theater on two separate evenings to watch opera performed by an Italian troupe. On the morning of April 3, 1869, the Prince and his entourage visited Topkapi Palace and the historical sites of Sultanahmet via three state barges.
The state ball at the British Embassy was exceptionally magnificent. Six hundred invitations were sent. When the Prince and Princess arrived, they were greeted by the Ambassador and the crew of the Ariadne, who were waiting in the courtyard. For the first time since the Crimean War, Pera echoed with the footsteps of British infantry. The Sultan arrived later with a large group of ministers and officers, making his first-ever appearance at a ball.
Here is the English translation of the final segment of the royal visit, covering the grand ball and the Sunday church service:
A cartoon by Edward Linley Sambourne published in Punch magazine regarding William Howard Russell. Punch, October 8, 1881.
William Howard Russell describes the scene in his notes:
“In the courtyard, adorned with flags, stood the Royal Marines' guard of honor. For the first time since the Crimean War, Pera echoed with the footsteps of British infantry. The corridors, staircases, and halls were decorated with flowers and exotic plants. The Sultan arrived late, followed by a large group of ministers and officers. In the courtyard of the British Embassy, the Prince and Princess were welcomed by the protocol and the Ambassador. The Princess of Wales and Mrs. Elliot greeted him [the Sultan] at the first landing.”
After the Sultan took his place on the platform alongside the Prince and Princess, all the guests flocked toward them to witness the Sultan’s first-ever appearance at a ball. The first to take the floor for the opening dance were the Prince and Princess, Mr. and Mrs. Elliot, General and Madame Ignatieff, and M. Bourre. Sultan Abdülaziz departed the event shortly after midnight, while the royal party continued to celebrate until the early hours of the morning.
The Church at the Embassy
On Sunday, April 4, 1869, the royal party attended a religious service at the church within the British Embassy. they traveled in a convoy according to protocol, using three open carriages—each pulled by four horses—and surrounded by guards.
They were followed by the guard unit and servants. The streets and windows were filled with people watching them pass. The Prince and Princess were met on the veranda by the Ambassador and Mrs. Elliot and were led into the crowded church. Following the prayer read by Reverend Mr. Gribble, lunch was served at the Embassy, after which the party returned to the palace.
Princess Christina, accompanied by Mrs. Grey and embassy interpreter Sandeson, goes to the Grand Bazaar. Later, they visit Captain Ellis at the Abdullah Brothers Photography Studio in Pera and the extremely colorful studio of Maltese-English painter Amadeo Preziosi on Hamalbaşı Street.
At 3:30 PM, the Prince, the Princess, and the protocol crossed the Bosphorus in the Sultan's barge, accompanied by three other boats, to visit the cemetery in Üsküdar where British soldiers who perished at Sevastopol are buried. By the afternoon, clouds arriving from the Black Sea signaled rain; shortly after the visitors entered the cemetery, the downpour began. They were greeted by a predominantly European crowd; inside the walls, many groups of ladies and gentlemen were waiting for them.
The cemetery caretaker, Sergeant Lyne, appeared intelligent and hardworking but had only two assistants. It was noted that some graves were in desperate need of cleaning, and it seemed the staff was not working effectively enough. If the salaries reportedly paid to the staff were accurate, they were by no means meager.
Üsküdar (Haidarpasha) Cemetery
The British Cemetery in Haidarpasha was originally established for British soldiers who died during the Crimean War. William Howard Russell repeatedly insisted that local authorities were neglecting their inspection duties and that funds were being wasted. He recounted his observations as follows:
"Despite the increasing rain, the Prince and Princess toured the cemetery carefully. On the green slope overlooking the sea, near the barracks hospital of Üsküdar—once filled with bones and bodies—they read the brief life and service details inscribed on the stones of those lying beneath marble sarcophagi. The most striking object in the cemetery is a quadrilateral column inscribed with the words: 'Here lie those who died for their country while fighting against Russia in the years 1854, 1855, and 1856.' Inscriptions are found on every face. However, these were so poorly carved that, except for the French text on the west-facing side, the others could hardly be read. Admirers of Marochetti's work would appreciate the facial expressions of the angels serving as the four feet supporting the obelisk on the column. The obelisk is a petto copy of the Luxor column. The overall appearance was not particularly beautiful or precious. We were astonished to learn that the cost of this statue, including transportation, was the enormous sum of £17,500."
Sultan Abdülaziz organized another magnificent ceremony in honor of his guests. As they traveled to the Beylerbeyi Mosque by imperial barge, ships on both sides of the Bosphorus saluted them with cannons, their masts decorated from top to bottom with flags. The royal party passed through a sea of boats and steamboats adorned with British and other European foreigners and hundreds of curious onlookers, finally landing at Beylerbeyi. After resting for a while, the royal party returned to Dolmabahçe Palace by ceremonial carriages. Following a grand reception, they returned once more to the Nusretiye Pavilion in Salıpazarı.
William Howard Russell’s observations also included these points:
"In Istanbul, which suffered a great fire in 1864, the construction of wooden houses is now forbidden, and vast open spaces remain where ruined houses once stood. Gas lamps are seen in the streets, and there are fountains along the way."
The journey of Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, and his wife, Princess Alexandra Christina, covering Egypt, Istanbul, and Sevastopol, was documented through colored pencil and watercolor paintings by Oswald Walters Brierly, one of the most prominent painters of the era. Some of these works belong to Istanbul, and it was on this occasion that Brierly’s name and works appeared in the Turkish press.
Upon returning from the trip to Egypt, the heir to the English throne and his future wife attended a ceremony at the Crimean War Cemetery in Haidarpasha. On April 8, 1869, they visited the Orientalist painter Amadeo Preziosi in his studio on Hamalbaşı Street and purchased several of his works.
William Howard Russell, who was invited to the Prince's journey, documented this trip shortly after his return to England in a work titled "Diary in the East During the Tour of the Prince and Princess of Wales," published by George Routledge and Sons. Various paintings related to this journey are held in the British Royal Family collection.
About Sir Oswald Walters Brierly
Sir Oswald Walters Brierly was born in 1817 in Chester as the son of a physicist and amateur painter. He studied at Sass Academy and then went to Plymouth for shipbuilding and maritime studies. In 1841, he embarked on a world voyage aboard a ship named Wanderer. Upon reaching Australia, he decided to settle in New South Wales. While working in the mining sector in this country, he also created many paintings, primarily in watercolor, china ink, and colored pencil.
He returned to England in 1851 and joined the ship St. Jean d'Acre in the Baltic Fleet as an observant painter. In 1855, he traveled to Istanbul and then to Crimea aboard the warship Rodney to illustrate the events of the Crimean War.
In 1864, Brierly traveled to Norway aboard a warship named HMS Racoon under the command of Lord Glichen (Count Gleichen), and then joined HMS Galatea under the command of Prince Alfred.
In 1867, he set out on another world voyage at the invitation of the Duke of Edinburgh, though an assassination attempt against the Duke led to the program's cancellation. Sometime later, at the invitation of Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, and Princess Alexandra Christina, he joined the long 1869 journey covering Egypt, Istanbul, and the Black Sea as an observing artist.
A painting signed by Oswald Walters Brierly: Royal ships are setting sail for the Black Sea.
In the final years of his life, while facing difficult financial circumstances, he was conferred a title of nobility and honored as Sir Oswald Walters Brierly. Following his death in 1894, an exhibition of his works opened at the Talbotype Gallery on April 5, 1895, which was visited by the Prince of Wales.
In his works, he primarily used colored pencils enriched with watercolors. Although he executed some of his pieces entirely in watercolor, he also produced many works using India ink and pen. An exhibition consisting of his watercolor paintings was held at the Hunter Museum of American Art in the USA in 1982.
Footnotes:
William Howard Russell-Diary in the East During the tour of the Prince and Princess of Wales, 1869 George Routledge And Sons. (Osman Öndeş Library).
William Howard Russell, op. cit.
Dalia Millar- The Victorian Watercolours and Drawings in the collection of HM Queen, London Philip Wilson, 1995. Ayrıca Robert Searight Koleksiyonu - Victoria & Albert Museum.
Source: www.denizhaber.com